Overview
The Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW) occupies more than 1.1 million acres in the Superior National Forest along Minnesota's border with Ontario, Canada. It is one of the most visited wilderness areas in the United States and one of the few places in the lower 48 states where a traveler can paddle for days without seeing a road, powerline, or motorized vehicle (in most zones).
The landscape is classic boreal: thousands of interconnected lakes and streams, granite outcrops scarred by glaciers, stands of white and red pine, spruce, and birch, and a sky that produces some of the darkest nights in the Midwest. The area shares its northern boundary with Ontario's Quetico Provincial Park, creating a vast cross-border wilderness corridor.
The wilderness is managed by the USDA Forest Service under a permit system designed to protect its ecological character. Motorized watercraft are permitted on a limited number of lakes, but the majority of the BWCAW is non-motorized, making human-powered travel — canoe, kayak, or on foot — the defining experience here.
Wildlife is abundant and observable: common loons, bald eagles, osprey, moose, black bear, timber wolf, and dozens of fish species including walleye, lake trout, smallmouth bass, and northern pike. The loon's call across a still lake at dusk is widely considered the defining sound of the Boundary Waters.
Before You Go
Permits
A permit is required for overnight travel in the BWCAW during the quota season, which generally runs from approximately May 1 through September 30. Day use also requires a fee permit year-round. Permits are tied to a specific entry point and date, and popular entry points can fill months in advance. Reservations open in early January for the coming season through Recreation.gov — verify exact dates on the official Forest Service site. Walk-up permits for unreserved quota spaces are available at Forest Service offices the day before travel, but availability is not guaranteed.
Outfitters and Equipment
Nearly all first-time visitors benefit from working with a licensed outfitter based in the gateway communities of Ely, Grand Marais, or Tofte. Outfitters can provide canoes, camping gear, food packs, and guided trips, and many offer partial outfitting if you have some of your own equipment. Confirm outfitter availability well in advance of summer trips.
What to Prepare For
- Physical fitness: Portages — overland carries between lakes — can range from a few rods to over a mile on rough terrain. Carrying a canoe and gear simultaneously is the norm.
- Navigation: Cell service is essentially nonexistent in the interior. Paper topographic maps and a compass are essential; a waterproof map case is strongly advised.
- Weather: Conditions change rapidly. Summer thunderstorms with strong winds can develop quickly and make open-water crossings dangerous. Pack rain gear regardless of the forecast.
- Leave No Trace: The BWCAW enforces strict regulations including a ban on cans and bottles in most of the wilderness, a requirement to use designated fire grates where provided, and rules on waste disposal. Review current regulations on the Superior National Forest website before your trip.
Getting There
By Air
The closest commercial airport with scheduled service is Duluth International Airport (DLH), roughly 90 miles south of Ely. Minneapolis–Saint Paul International Airport (MSP) is a larger hub approximately 240 miles from Ely and offers more flight options. Car rental from either airport is the standard onward connection.
By Car
Ely is the primary gateway for the central and northern entry points and is reached via US Highway 169 north from the Twin Cities, passing through Virginia and Babbitt. The North Shore communities of Grand Marais and Tofte serve the eastern entry points and are reached via US Highway 61 along Lake Superior. Road conditions in winter can be severe; verify conditions before traveling outside the main paddling season.
No Public Transit
There is no scheduled bus or rail service to the gateway communities closest to the BWCAW. A personal vehicle or arranged shuttle is required for most visitors.
Getting Around
Inside the wilderness, travel is by canoe, kayak, or foot. Canoes are the overwhelmingly dominant mode because the route network is built around lakes connected by portages rather than a continuous waterway. Most paddlers use 16–18-foot canoes capable of carrying two paddlers and gear; solo canoes are also used by experienced paddlers.
Portages are marked on BWCAW maps and are measured in rods (one rod equals approximately 5 meters). Shorter portages are straightforward; longer ones typically require multiple trips — carrying the canoe first, then returning for the gear packs, or vice versa. Wheeled portage carts are useful on smooth portage trails but impractical on rocky terrain.
A few entry point lakes have motorized access; verify which lakes permit motors and what horsepower limits apply on the Forest Service website, as rules vary by specific lake. For the majority of routes, silence and muscle power are the law of the land.
Gateway towns are small and walkable. In Ely, outfitters, grocery stores, gear shops, and restaurants are concentrated near the center of town. A car is useful for reaching different entry points.
Where to Stay
Wilderness Camping
Overnight visitors camp at designated campsites only, identifiable by a steel fire grate and typically a box latrine. Sites are first-come, first-served once you are in the interior — you cannot reserve a specific campsite. Good sites on popular routes fill by early afternoon in peak season, so plan to be paddling early. Camping fees are included in the overnight permit.
Campsites are set directly on lakeshores or on rocky points, often with exceptional views. Most have a cleared tent pad area, though surfaces can be rocky; a quality sleeping pad is important.
Gateway Lodging
Ely, Grand Marais, and the surrounding Gunflint Trail corridor offer a range of lodging including independent motels, resorts, cabin rentals, and bed-and-breakfasts. Availability in peak summer competes directly with canoe trip demand, so book well in advance. Verify current options and rates on local tourism sites or directly with properties.
Things to See & Do
Canoeing and Paddling
This is the core activity. Routes range from easy one-lake paddles with minimal portaging to multi-week expeditions crossing dozens of lakes. Entry points vary widely in difficulty and solitude; consult Forest Service resources or an experienced outfitter to match a route to your skill level and timeline.
Fishing
The BWCAW is a serious fishing destination. Walleye, lake trout, smallmouth bass, northern pike, and bluegill are all present, with species varying by lake. A valid Minnesota fishing license is required. Possession of live bait — including minnows from outside the wilderness — is regulated to prevent invasive species introduction; verify current bait rules before your trip.
Wildlife Watching
Common loons nest on many lakes and are frequently seen and heard. Bald eagles and osprey are regular overhead sights. Moose are present but elusive; early morning paddles in shallow bays offer the best chance of an encounter. Timber wolves range the area but are rarely seen. Black bears are a genuine factor — proper food storage using a bear canister or hanging system is required and practical.
Stargazing
Light pollution is minimal throughout most of the BWCAW. Clear nights offer excellent viewing of the Milky Way, and the area is occasionally within range of northern lights displays, particularly in fall and early spring.
Portage Hiking
Some visitors explore portage trails on foot as day hikes from a base camp, reaching smaller, less-visited lakes without moving camp. This is an underused way to add variety to a longer trip.
Winter Activities
Outside the paddling season, the BWCAW attracts cross-country skiers and dog mushers. Winter conditions are severe and remote; appropriate cold-weather wilderness experience is essential.
Food & Drink
In the Wilderness
Most paddlers carry all food for their trip. Freeze-dried meals, dehydrated foods, hard cheeses, crackers, nuts, and other shelf-stable foods are the norm. Outfitters often sell or rent pre-planned food packs. Resupply is not possible in the interior.
Wilderness cooking is typically done on a camp stove or, where permitted and conditions allow, over an open fire in designated fire grates. Fire bans are periodically imposed during drought conditions; a camp stove is always a necessary backup. Check for active fire restrictions before departure.
Fish caught legally can be cleaned and eaten at camp. The BWCAW has specific regulations on where fish may be cleaned; review these in the permit materials.
In Gateway Communities
Ely has a modest but functional restaurant scene — cafes, supper clubs, pizza, and a brewery among them. Grand Marais on the North Shore has a well-regarded food culture relative to its size, with bakeries, cafes, and restaurants that attract visitors from the Twin Cities. Verify current operating hours locally, as small-town restaurants adjust seasonally.
Practical Information
Communication and Emergency Contact
Cell service is absent throughout the vast majority of the BWCAW interior. Satellite communicators (such as a personal locator beacon or two-way satellite messenger) are strongly recommended for any multi-day trip. Before entering the wilderness, leave a detailed float plan — your route, entry and exit points, and expected return date — with a trusted contact who knows to alert authorities if you do not return.
For emergencies originating from the wilderness, Lake County and St. Louis County sheriff departments coordinate search and rescue, but response times in remote areas can be lengthy. Self-sufficiency and prevention are the best safety tools.
Water
Lake water is generally clear but must be treated before drinking. A quality water filter rated for backcountry use is standard equipment. Giardia is present in wilderness water sources.
Insects
Blackflies are intense in late May and early June. Mosquitoes peak in late June and remain present through summer. A head net, DEET-based repellent, and long-sleeved clothing are practical rather than optional during peak bug season.
Cans and Bottles
Minnesota law prohibits the possession of cans and glass bottles in the BWCAW. All food and beverages must be in plastic or other approved containers. Verify current regulations on the Superior National Forest website.
Currency and Payments
Permit fees are paid online through Recreation.gov. Gateway towns accept standard US payment methods; carry some cash for smaller establishments and for fuel.
Safety
Water Safety
Cold water is the primary physical danger in the BWCAW. Even in summer, lake temperatures can cause incapacitation from cold shock within minutes of immersion. Wearing a properly fitted personal flotation device (PFD) at all times on the water is the single most important safety practice. Open-water crossings should be made in calm conditions; if wind picks up significantly, go to shore and wait.
Bears and Wildlife
Black bears in the BWCAW are habituated to human food sources at some popular campsites. Store all food, scented items, and garbage suspended from a line between trees or in a bear canister, away from your sleeping area. Never feed wildlife. Moose, though not typically aggressive, can charge if startled; give them significant distance.
Getting Lost
Carrying and knowing how to use a topographic map and compass is essential. GPS devices are useful supplements but should not replace traditional navigation skills, as batteries fail and devices can be lost or waterlogged. Mark your campsite and entry point before venturing out on day paddles.
Weather and Lightning
The BWCAW sits in a region where afternoon thunderstorms develop rapidly in summer. Get off open water and away from tall isolated trees at the first sign of lightning. Hypothermia is a risk in rainy, windy conditions even in summer; pack and wear appropriate rain gear.