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Portage Glacier and the small community of Whittier sit roughly 60 miles southeast of Anchorage in the Chugach National Forest, tucked between the Chugach Mountains and the waters of Prince William Sound. Together they form one of Alaska's most accessible wilderness corridors — a place where visitors can step from a paved road into a landscape of calving glaciers, fjords, sea otters, and bald eagles within a two-hour drive from the state's largest city.
Portage Glacier, part of the Portage Valley glacier complex, once extended to the edge of Portage Lake but has retreated significantly over the past century — a visible illustration of glacial change that adds an educational dimension to any visit. The lake itself remains dramatic, often dotted with free-floating ice chunks even in summer.
Whittier is one of Alaska's more unusual communities. Nearly all of its roughly 200–300 permanent residents live in a single high-rise building, Begich Towers, a remnant of a former U.S. Army base. The town serves as a gateway to Prince William Sound for kayakers, wildlife cruise operators, and fishing enthusiasts, and its harbor is one of the most active small-boat harbors in Southcentral Alaska.
Before You Go
Visas
Whittier and Portage Glacier are located in the United States. For visa requirements, check TravelerPulse's Visas section and consult the U.S. Citizenship and Immigration Services (USCIS) official website for current entry rules.
Seasonal Conditions
- Summer (May–September): The Portage Glacier Road is fully open, the Begich Boggs Visitor Center typically operates, and glacier cruise boats run on Portage Lake. Days are very long, with temperatures generally ranging from the mid-40s to low 60s°F.
- Winter (October–April): Snow closes some facilities, but the tunnel to Whittier remains open year-round. Winter brings ice fishing on frozen lakes and the possibility of northern lights viewing. Verify current road and facility status before traveling.
What to Pack
- Waterproof outer layers and rain gear — precipitation is frequent and heavy in this maritime climate
- Warm mid-layers even in summer; temperatures near the glacier and on the water are noticeably cold
- Sturdy waterproof footwear
- Bear spray if you plan to hike off developed trails
- Cash — services in Whittier are limited and not all vendors accept cards; verify locally
Getting There
From Anchorage by Car
The most common approach is to drive the Seward Highway south from Anchorage to the Portage Valley turnoff, then follow Portage Glacier Road to the visitor center — approximately 50–55 miles total. The drive is considered one of the most scenic in Alaska, running alongside Turnagain Arm.
The Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel
To reach Whittier, travelers must pass through the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel, a combined road-and-rail tunnel that is one of the longest highway tunnels in North America at roughly 2.5 miles. The tunnel operates on a timed, alternating one-way schedule, meaning there are scheduled departure windows for vehicles in each direction. A toll is charged for vehicles; check the Alaska Department of Transportation website or verify locally for current schedules and fees, as they change seasonally.
By Train
The Alaska Railroad operates a seasonal passenger service between Anchorage and Whittier, a scenic option that runs through the tunnel. Check the Alaska Railroad's official website for current schedules and fares.
By Tour Bus
Several Anchorage-based tour operators run day trips combining Portage Glacier and Whittier. This is a convenient option for travelers without a vehicle.
Getting Around
Both Portage Valley and Whittier are compact destinations where most points of interest are reachable on foot or by a short drive. In Portage Valley, the main road dead-ends at the Begich Boggs Visitor Center, and trails are accessed directly from the road corridor.
In Whittier, the harbor, shops, and most services are within easy walking distance of the tunnel exit. There is no public transit within Whittier itself. If you arrive by train, the harbor and town center are a short walk from the depot.
For glacier cruise boats and wildlife tour departures, all operators work out of the small-boat harbor in Whittier. Confirm your departure point with your tour operator when you book.
Things to See & Do
Portage Glacier Cruise
Boat tours on Portage Lake bring visitors close to the glacier's active face, where calving events sometimes occur and floating icebergs can be observed at close range. This is the primary way to see the glacier up close, as it has retreated beyond easy viewing from the shore. A concessionaire has historically operated cruises from near the visitor center; verify current operators and schedules locally or through the Chugach National Forest.
Begich Boggs Visitor Center
This national forest visitor center in Portage Valley offers interpretive exhibits on glaciology, local wildlife, and the natural history of the Chugach. It serves as a good orientation point before heading out on the water or trails. Operating hours and seasonal closures should be confirmed before your visit.
Hiking in Portage Valley
- Byron Glacier Trail: A relatively flat, easy trail (roughly 1 mile one-way) leading toward the Byron Glacier, one of the few accessible glaciers visitors can approach on foot in the area. Watch for avalanche debris and ice in early season.
- Portage Lake Overlook and other short trails are accessible from the valley road.
Prince William Sound Kayaking and Wildlife Tours
Whittier is a launching point for multi-day kayaking expeditions and day-trip wildlife cruises into Prince William Sound. Operators offer tours focused on glaciers, sea otters, Steller sea lions, harbor seals, orcas, humpback whales (seasonal), and seabirds. Book in advance during peak summer months.
Fishing
Silver (coho) salmon fishing in the waters around Whittier is a seasonal draw. Sport fishing charters operate from the harbor. A valid Alaska fishing license is required; check Alaska Department of Fish and Game for current regulations and season dates.
Food & Drink
Dining options in Whittier are limited given the town's small permanent population. A handful of small restaurants and snack stands typically operate during the summer tourist season, offering basics such as burgers, seafood, and pizza. Do not expect a wide range of cuisine.
There is no sit-down dining in Portage Valley itself. Visitors should bring food and water, or plan to eat before arriving or after returning to Anchorage.
Alcohol is available in Whittier at licensed establishments, but options are limited. Grocery resupply is minimal — stock up in Anchorage before your trip.
Practical Information
Connectivity and Services
Cell phone coverage in Portage Valley is unreliable and may be absent in parts of the glacier area. Whittier has some coverage but it can be spotty. Download offline maps before you leave Anchorage.
ATMs and banking services are essentially nonexistent in Whittier. Bring sufficient cash and have a fully fueled vehicle, as there is limited fuel infrastructure in the area — verify locally before relying on fuel availability in Whittier.
Emergency Services
Whittier has a small police presence and the tunnel authority can assist in emergencies inside the tunnel. For serious medical emergencies, the nearest hospital-level care is in Anchorage. The Alaska State Troopers cover the broader region. In life-threatening emergencies, call 911.
Restrooms and Facilities
Public restrooms are available at the Begich Boggs Visitor Center (when open) and at the Whittier harbor area. Facilities are minimal elsewhere in Portage Valley.
Safety
Glacier and Ice Safety
Do not walk on Portage Glacier or attempt to approach floating ice on the lake independently. Ice conditions are unpredictable and potentially dangerous. Stay on designated trails and follow any guidance posted by the U.S. Forest Service.
Wildlife Awareness
Black and brown (grizzly) bears are present in Portage Valley and the surrounding Chugach National Forest. Make noise while hiking, carry bear spray and know how to use it, and store food properly. Moose are also common and can be aggressive, particularly cows with calves.
Tunnel Safety
The Anton Anderson Tunnel has specific rules about speed, following instructions from tunnel staff, and vehicle spacing. Adhere strictly to all posted instructions. Carbon monoxide ventilation in the tunnel is managed actively, but do not stop inside unnecessarily.
Weather and Avalanche Risk
Portage Valley receives very high annual precipitation and is subject to avalanche conditions in winter and early spring. Check avalanche forecasts from the Alaska Avalanche Center before hiking in the off-season.
