Overview
Westray is one of the northernmost inhabited islands of Orkney, lying roughly 40 kilometres north of Kirkwall on the Orkney Mainland. With a population of around 600 people, it is one of the larger and more self-sufficient of Orkney's inhabited islands, supporting a working agricultural community alongside a modest but growing tourism economy.
The island is best known to wildlife enthusiasts for its spectacular seabird colonies, particularly the puffins that gather at Castle o'Burrian sea stack each summer. Archaeologically, Westray holds remarkable significance — the Westray Wife (also called the Orkney Venus), a tiny Neolithic figurine discovered here, is among the oldest representation of a human face found in Britain.
The landscape is quintessentially Orcadian: open, wind-swept moorland and fertile farmland meeting rugged red-sandstone cliffs along the western shore. The pace of life is unhurried, infrastructure is limited, and visitors who come expecting resort amenities will be disappointed — but those seeking genuine remoteness and natural beauty will find Westray deeply rewarding.
Papa Westray, Westray's small neighbour, is accessible by what is often cited as the world's shortest scheduled commercial flight — a crossing of roughly 2 kilometres that can take under two minutes in ideal conditions.
Before You Go
Visas and Entry
Westray is part of the United Kingdom. Entry requirements depend on your nationality. For current visa and entry information, check TravelerPulse's Visas section and the official UK Visas and Immigration authority website before travel.
Planning Ahead
Westray is a small, remote island with limited accommodation and services. Booking ferries, accommodation, and car hire well in advance is strongly recommended, particularly for summer visits between May and August. Last-minute availability is rare.
What to Pack
- Waterproof and windproof outer layers are essential year-round; even summer days can be wet and blustery
- Sturdy walking boots suitable for coastal and moorland paths
- Binoculars are highly recommended for birdwatching
- Sun protection for long summer daylight hours (Westray can have 18+ hours of usable light in June)
- Cash, as card acceptance can be limited in some local businesses — verify this locally before arrival
Health
There is a small medical practice on Westray. For serious medical emergencies, patients may need to be transferred to the Orkney Mainland or further. Travel insurance with medical evacuation cover is advisable.
Getting There
By Ferry
NorthLink Ferries operates regular services between Aberdeen and Kirkwall (Orkney Mainland). From Kirkwall, Orkney Ferries runs scheduled passenger and vehicle ferry services to Westray via Rapness pier. Crossing times and schedules vary by season — check Orkney Ferries' official website for current timetables and to book vehicle spaces, which are limited.
By Air
Loganair operates scheduled flights from Kirkwall Airport to Westray's small airstrip. The same route continues to Papa Westray and is widely publicised as the world's shortest scheduled commercial flight. Flight durations are heavily weather-dependent. Verify current schedules and book directly with Loganair or through a travel agent, as availability on small island routes is limited.
Getting to Kirkwall First
Most visitors reach Kirkwall either by Northlink ferry from Aberdeen or Scrabster (via Stromness), or by flying into Kirkwall Airport on connections from Inverness, Edinburgh, Aberdeen, or Bergen. Verify current routes and schedules with Loganair and the ferry operators, as these can change seasonally.
Getting Around
Westray is approximately 16 kilometres long and up to 5 kilometres wide, making it manageable by bicycle or on foot for those with time, though many sites are spread out enough that a car or van is a practical advantage.
Car Hire
A small number of car hire options operate on the island. Availability is very limited — book as early as possible directly with local providers. Verify current operators locally or through the Westray Development Trust.
Cycling
Westray is popular with cyclists. The roads are quiet and largely flat to gently rolling, though coastal wind can make cycling more demanding. Some accommodation providers may offer bicycle hire — verify locally.
Walking
The island has a network of walking routes including coastal cliff paths. The walk to the puffin colony at Castle o'Burrian from Noup Head area is among the most-visited. Paths can be wet and uneven; appropriate footwear is essential.
Taxis
Taxi availability is very limited. Your accommodation host is usually the best source of current local transport advice.
Where to Stay
Accommodation on Westray is limited and ranges from small hotels and guesthouses to self-catering cottages and B&Bs. The Cleaton House Hotel is a well-known option on the island — verify current availability and rates directly. Several self-catering properties exist around the island and are particularly practical for families or longer stays.
The Westray Development Trust and local tourism resources can provide a current listing of available accommodation. Book as far in advance as possible, especially for summer travel. There is no large hotel or chain accommodation on the island.
Camping may be possible in designated areas — verify locally before pitching, as formal campsite infrastructure is minimal.
Things to See & Do
Wildlife and Nature
The puffin colony at Castle o'Burrian sea stack, near Noltland, is Westray's most celebrated natural attraction. Puffins are typically present from late April through July or early August. Noup Head RSPB Reserve on the island's northwest tip hosts large colonies of guillemots, razorbills, kittiwakes, and fulmars along dramatic sandstone cliffs. Grey seals are commonly seen around the coastline.
Archaeology
Noltland Castle is a striking 16th-century ruin — one of the best-preserved castles in Orkney — and is freely accessible (verify access conditions locally). The Links of Noltland archaeological site nearby has yielded Neolithic and Bronze Age remains including the famous Westray Wife figurine. The figurine itself is held at the Orkney Museum in Kirkwall; a replica is displayed locally — verify current display arrangements with the Westray Heritage Centre.
Westray Heritage Centre
The heritage centre in Pierowall village provides context on the island's history, archaeology, and community life. Opening hours are seasonal — verify before visiting.
Pierowall Village
The island's main settlement, Pierowall, has a sheltered bay, the ruins of a medieval church (St Mary's), and is the social hub of the island. It is a pleasant place to walk around and observe daily island life.
Papa Westray Day Trip
Taking the short Loganair flight or the inter-island ferry across to Papa Westray ('Papay') for a day is a popular excursion. Papa Westray contains Knap of Howar, one of the oldest preserved stone houses in northern Europe.
Food & Drink
Westray's food and drink scene is modest but reflective of what the island and surrounding waters produce. Local seafood — crab, lobster, and fish — features when available, and Orkney beef and lamb are staples across the islands.
Pierowall has a small number of options for eating and drinking including a pub. Opening hours and seasonal availability vary considerably — it is sensible to check with your accommodation host about what is currently open, particularly outside peak summer months.
Self-catering visitors should note that the island has a small shop, but choice is limited. If you have specific dietary requirements or preferences, bring supplies from Kirkwall or the Scottish mainland. Kirkwall has supermarkets and a much wider range of grocery options.
Orkney-produced items such as locally brewed ales, Orkney cheese, and oatcakes make worthwhile purchases if available in the local shop.
Practical Information
Money
British pounds (GBP) are the currency. Cash is advisable as card machines may not be universally available in smaller island businesses. Verify locally.
Connectivity
Mobile phone coverage on Westray can be patchy, particularly in rural and coastal areas. Do not rely on mobile data for navigation. Download offline maps before arriving. Wi-Fi may be available at your accommodation — verify when booking.
Electricity
Standard UK plugs (Type G, three-pin) and voltage (230V, 50Hz) apply throughout.
Emergency Services
For all emergencies in the UK dial 999. The coastguard can also be reached via 999. For non-emergency police contact 101. Medical facilities on the island are limited — see the Before You Go section.
Responsible Visiting
- Do not approach nesting seabirds too closely; stay on paths and follow RSPB guidance at reserves
- Close all farm gates behind you
- Take all litter back with you — bin provision is very limited
- Respect the working farming community; many paths cross active farmland
Local Culture & Etiquette
Westray has a strong community identity shaped by centuries of farming, fishing, and relative self-sufficiency. Orcadian culture more broadly carries Norse as well as Scottish influences — place names on Westray are predominantly Old Norse in origin (Noltland, Rapness, Pierowall all derive from Norse roots).
The island community is small and often welcoming to visitors, but it is a working community rather than a tourist destination in the conventional sense. Visitors who engage respectfully, shop locally where possible, and take an interest in the island's history and environment tend to have the most rewarding experience.
Local events may occur during summer — the Westray Development Trust is a good point of contact for community activities. The Orkney Folk Festival, held in late May across Orkney, sometimes includes events on Westray.