Overview
Papa Westray — known locally as 'Papay' — is one of the most northerly and remote inhabited islands in Orkney, Scotland, sitting roughly 25 miles north of mainland Orkney. With a permanent population of around 70–90 people, it is a quiet, car-light community where a single road loops the island and farming shapes the landscape as much as the sea does.
Despite its tiny size (roughly 4 miles long and 1 mile wide), Papay carries an outsized historical and ecological significance. The Knap of Howar, a pair of Neolithic farmhouses dating to around 3500 BCE, is widely regarded as one of the oldest preserved stone dwellings in northern Europe. Alongside this ancient heritage, the island hosts internationally important seabird breeding colonies, particularly at the RSPB North Hill Nature Reserve at the northern tip.
This is not a destination built around tourism infrastructure. Visitors who come here tend to do so deliberately — drawn by the archaeology, the birdlife, the walking, or simply the experience of living briefly at a genuine edge of the world. That honesty of place is, for many, exactly the point.
Before You Go
Visas
Papa Westray is part of the United Kingdom. For visa guidance, check TravelerPulse's Visas section and consult the UK Visas and Immigration authority (UKVI) at the official GOV.UK website for requirements applicable to your nationality.
What to pack
- Waterproof and windproof outer layers are essential year-round; Orkney weather changes rapidly
- Sturdy walking boots suitable for rough coastal and moorland terrain
- Binoculars if you are visiting for birdwatching
- A small supply of any prescription medication, as resupply options are extremely limited
- Cash — card payment may not be accepted everywhere on the island; verify locally
Health and connectivity
There is no hospital on Papay. Emergency medical evacuation to Kirkwall on Orkney Mainland is handled by air ambulance or ferry depending on conditions. Mobile phone signal can be patchy; do not rely on it for navigation or emergencies. Download offline maps before you arrive.
Getting There
By air
Loganair operates scheduled inter-island flights from Kirkwall Airport on Orkney Mainland to Papa Westray Airport. The flight to the adjacent island of Westray, and then on to Papay, includes what is officially recorded as the world's shortest scheduled airline flight — the Westray to Papa Westray leg, which takes approximately two minutes in good conditions. Schedules and booking should be confirmed directly with Loganair, as timetables change seasonally.
By ferry
Orkney Ferries operates a passenger and vehicle ferry service between Kirkwall and Papa Westray, usually via Westray. Crossing times are longer than the flight but give a strong sense of the island's remoteness. Timetables are tide- and weather-dependent; check the Orkney Ferries website for current schedules and to book vehicle space, which is limited.
Getting to Kirkwall first
Kirkwall is reached by ferry from Scrabster, Gill's Bay, or Aberdeen on the Scottish mainland (operated by NorthLink Ferries), or by air from several Scottish and UK airports via Loganair. Verify all onward connections in advance, as missed links on remote island routes can mean an unplanned overnight stay.
Getting Around
Papa Westray is small enough to walk across in a morning if you set a reasonable pace. The island has one main road, and most key sites — the Knap of Howar, the RSPB reserve, the community shop, and the pier — are reachable on foot from the main settlement.
There is no public bus service. A small number of bicycles may be available to hire through the community; verify this locally or through the Papay Community Co-operative before travelling. If you arrive by ferry with your own vehicle you can drive, but given the size of the island this is rarely necessary.
Be considerate of working farmland when walking. Stick to marked paths, especially during the seabird nesting season (roughly April to August), when ground-nesting birds such as Arctic terns can be defensive near their nests.
Where to Stay
Accommodation on Papa Westray is extremely limited and should be booked well in advance of any visit, particularly in summer. Options have historically included a small hostel (Beltane House, operated by the community co-operative) and a limited number of self-catering or bed-and-breakfast options. Verify current availability and pricing directly through the Papay Community Co-operative or local listings before travelling — options do change on small islands.
Day-trippers flying in on the morning Loganair service and returning in the afternoon are common, but if you want to properly experience the island — particularly for wildlife or archaeology — an overnight stay gives a very different and more rewarding perspective. Book early; capacity is genuinely small.
Things to See & Do
Knap of Howar
This pair of Neolithic stone farmhouses, dating to approximately 3500–3100 BCE, is a Historic Environment Scotland scheduled monument and one of the most remarkable prehistoric sites in the whole of Britain. The structures are low, roofless, and remarkably intact; you can enter them and gain a tangible sense of their age. Access is free and the site is not fenced — check Historic Environment Scotland's information for any updates.
RSPB North Hill Nature Reserve
The northern end of the island is a reserve managed by the RSPB protecting moorland and coastal habitats. In summer it hosts breeding Arctic terns, Arctic skuas, puffins, razorbills, and other seabirds. A voluntary warden is typically present during the season and can offer guidance on where to walk without disturbing nests. Contact the RSPB or verify locally.
Holland Farm
The historic farmstead at Holland is the centre of the island's agricultural heritage and is associated with the Traill family who shaped much of Papay's 19th-century history. The farm buildings and surrounding area are worth exploring on foot.
Walking and coastline
The coastline offers excellent walking with dramatic cliff edges to the north and gentler shores to the south. The island is also notable for its wildflowers in early summer — look for primrose, sea campion, and spring squill along grassy verges and coastal banks.
Food & Drink
Dining options are minimal. The island has a small community shop that stocks basic groceries, and self-catering visitors should plan meals around what they bring from Kirkwall or the mainland, supplemented by what is available in the shop. Verify current shop hours locally.
If your accommodation includes meal options — some B&Bs and the hostel have historically offered this — confirm arrangements when booking. There is no pub or restaurant in the conventional sense. Bring any dietary specialist items with you.
Fresh local produce, including eggs and dairy, may occasionally be available directly from island farmers. This is the kind of place where asking locally often yields better results than any published guide.
Practical Information
Emergency services
- UK emergency number: 999 (police, fire, ambulance, coastguard)
- Non-emergency police: 101
- Medical emergencies may require air ambulance or ferry evacuation to Kirkwall; the island does not have a hospital
Money
Bring sufficient cash from Kirkwall. There is no ATM on the island; verify locally whether any card payment facilities exist.
Post and communications
There is a post office function on the island; verify current operating arrangements locally. Mobile signal is limited. Wi-Fi may be available through your accommodation but should not be assumed.
Responsible visiting
Papay has a tiny year-round community. Respect farm boundaries, follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code, and take all litter with you. Purchases at the community shop and use of local services directly support the island's economy.
Local Culture & Etiquette
Papa Westray's name derives from Old Norse, reflecting the island's history of Norse settlement — 'Papay' likely refers to early Celtic Christian monks ('papar') who inhabited the area before the Norse arrived. This layering of Pictish, early Christian, and Norse history sits beneath a more recent Scottish and British identity that is common across Orkney.
Orkney as a whole has a distinct cultural identity, and Papay shares that sense of being Orcadian first. The community is tight-knit and largely dependent on farming and fishing, with a cooperative ethos that is evident in how services like the shop and hostel are run. Visitors who engage respectfully — asking before photographing people, acknowledging the working nature of the landscape — are generally very warmly received.