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Hakone is a mountainous resort town in Kanagawa Prefecture, roughly 80–90 km southwest of central Tokyo. It sits within Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park and is one of Japan's most visited domestic destinations, drawing visitors with a combination of volcanic hot springs, highland scenery, art institutions, and reliable views of Mt. Fuji on clear days.
The town is loosely organized around a loop route that connects its main sightseeing areas — Hakone-Yumoto (the main gateway), Gora, Owakudani, and the shores of Lake Ashi (Ashi-no-ko). Each area has a distinct character: Hakone-Yumoto is the most developed for shopping and onsen bathing; Gora is quieter and home to upscale ryokan; Owakudani is a geothermally active volcanic valley; and the lake area offers boat rides and open landscape.
Hakone's popularity means infrastructure is well developed for international visitors. The famous Hakone Free Pass (issued by Odakyu) covers most transport within the area on a multi-day basis. Verify current pass inclusions and pricing directly with Odakyu or at the point of purchase.
Before You Go
Visas
Japan has a visa exemption arrangement with many countries, but rules change. Do not rely on secondhand information. Check TravelerPulse's Visas section and consult the official Japanese Ministry of Foreign Affairs website before booking.
Weather and packing
Hakone's elevation (many areas sit above 700 m) means temperatures are noticeably cooler than Tokyo year-round. Even in summer, bring a light layer for evenings. Winter (December–February) can be cold and occasionally snowy, which has its own appeal but may affect ropeway or boat services — verify locally before visiting.
Booking accommodation early
Ryokan with private open-air baths (rotenburo) are extremely popular and fill months in advance, particularly for weekends and public holidays. If a specific property is important to your trip, book well ahead. Many ryokan require full payment upfront for cancellations and operate dinner-inclusive plans (kaiseki).
Cash
While card acceptance is growing, many smaller inns, restaurants, and transport operators in Hakone are cash-preferred. Carry sufficient yen; ATMs at convenience stores (7-Eleven, Lawson) are reliable for international cards.
Getting There
From Tokyo
The most common route is the Odakyu Romancecar limited-express train from Shinjuku Station to Hakone-Yumoto Station. Journey time is approximately 85 minutes. Standard Odakyu trains also run but require a change and take longer. Verify current timetables and fares on the Odakyu website.
Alternatively, JR Shinkansen (Tokaido line) runs from Tokyo or Shin-Osaka to Odawara Station, from which local trains and buses connect to Hakone-Yumoto. This route is useful if you hold a Japan Rail Pass, though the Hakone Free Pass itself covers travel from Odawara inward.
By highway bus
Highway buses operate between Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal (Busta Shinjuku) and several Hakone stops. Journey times vary by traffic; buses are often cheaper than the Romancecar but less predictable in timing. Book in advance during peak periods.
By car
Hakone is accessible via the Tomei Expressway (Gotemba IC) or the Odawara-Atsugi Road. Parking at popular attractions is limited on weekends. Driving within the town loop is feasible but the winding mountain roads require attention.
Getting Around
Hakone's sightseeing loop is designed to be done by public transport, and the system works well. The main modes are:
- Hakone Tozan Railway — a steep rack railway climbing from Hakone-Yumoto to Gora; one of the most scenic train rides in the Kanto region
- Hakone Tozan Cable Car — connects Gora to Sounzan (upper ropeway station)
- Hakone Ropeway — aerial gondola linking Sounzan to Togendai on Lake Ashi, passing over Owakudani; occasionally closed for volcanic activity checks — verify status before visiting
- Hakone Sightseeing Cruise — ferry service across Lake Ashi between Togendai, Hakonemachi, and Moto-Hakone
- Hakone Tozan Bus — covers gaps in the rail/ropeway network and connects to outlying ryokan areas
The Hakone Free Pass (2-day or 3-day) bundles most of these services and is the most cost-effective option for full loop exploration. Confirm included routes and current pricing via Odakyu.
Where to Stay
Ryokan (traditional inns)
Staying in a ryokan is central to the Hakone experience for many visitors. A typical plan includes multi-course kaiseki dinner and breakfast, yukata (inn robe) to wear around the premises, and access to communal or private hot-spring baths. Prices vary considerably by property, season, and meal plan. Gora, Miyagino, and Kowakidani areas have concentrations of well-regarded ryokan. Book directly with properties or through reputable booking platforms; verify cancellation policies carefully.
Western-style hotels
Several international and domestic hotel brands operate in Hakone, particularly around Hakone-Yumoto and the lake area. These typically offer more flexible check-in/check-out, no mandatory meal plans, and may suit travelers on shorter or more spontaneous itineraries.
Budget options
Guesthouses and smaller minshuku (family-run inns) exist in Hakone-Yumoto and surrounding areas. These are less commonly listed on major English-language platforms, so searching Japanese booking sites (Jalan, Rakuten Travel) may surface additional options. Verify English communication availability if needed.
Things to See & Do
Hakone Open-Air Museum (Hakone Chokoku-no-Mori Bijutsukan)
Opened in 1969, this was Japan's first open-air art museum. Sculptures by major 20th-century artists, including a dedicated Picasso pavilion, are spread across a large landscaped park. Check the museum's official site for current admission fees and hours.
Owakudani Volcanic Valley
Owakudani is an active geothermal area with sulphurous vents and boiling pools. The signature local food here is kuro-tamago — eggs hard-boiled in the volcanic water, which turns the shells black. Access via the ropeway; certain hiking paths in the immediate crater area may be restricted depending on volcanic activity levels. Verify trail access locally.
Lake Ashi (Ashi-no-ko)
The caldera lake offers some of Hakone's most iconic views — Mt. Fuji rising above the water on clear days. The sightseeing cruise is pleasant even when Fuji is obscured by cloud. The lakeside at Moto-Hakone has a torii gate of Hakone Shrine standing in the water, which is a well-photographed spot.
Hakone Shrine
A Shinto shrine with roots dating back to the 8th century, set in cedar forest above the lake. The lakeside torii gate and forested approach make it atmospheric in any season.
Onsen bathing
Hakone has numerous distinct spring types across nine major spa areas (onsen-chi). Day-use bath facilities (higaeri onsen) are available at several establishments for visitors not staying overnight. Some public bath facilities may have restrictions for guests with tattoos — check individual policies in advance.
Pola Museum of Art
A privately funded museum in a forested setting near Sengokuhara, holding a substantial collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist works alongside Japanese modern art. Verify hours and admission on the museum's official site.
Food & Drink
Hakone's food scene is not destination dining in the way Tokyo is, but there are reliable local specialties and quality options throughout the area.
- Kuro-tamago — the volcanic black eggs of Owakudani, sold in small batches; a regional novelty best eaten at the source
- Kaiseki ryori — the elaborate multi-course meals served at ryokan represent one of Japan's most refined culinary traditions; staying at a ryokan is the most accessible way to experience this
- Soba — buckwheat noodle shops are common throughout Hakone and the wider Kanagawa area; a reliable and affordable lunch option
- Onsen manju — steamed sweet buns, a staple souvenir food sold in Hakone-Yumoto; vendors cluster near the station
Hakone-Yumoto has the widest variety of standalone restaurants. The lake and Gora areas have fewer options, and some resort areas rely heavily on hotel dining. If self-catering is important, note that supermarkets are limited — bring snacks or stock up in Odawara or at convenience stores.
Practical Information
Emergency numbers
- Police: 110
- Fire and ambulance: 119
- These are standard Japan-wide numbers.
Connectivity
Pocket Wi-Fi rental and SIM cards are widely available at major Japanese airports. Coverage in Hakone's mountainous areas is generally adequate but can be patchy on some hiking trails.
Accessibility
The ropeway, cruise, and major museums are reasonably accessible for visitors with mobility limitations, but the Hakone Tozan Railway's steep gradient and some ryokan's traditional layouts (low tables, futon bedding on tatami floors) can be challenging. Contact individual properties and services in advance to confirm specific provisions.
Volcanic activity
Owakudani sits within a monitored volcanic zone. The Japan Meteorological Agency issues volcanic alert levels, and the ropeway or specific hiking routes may be suspended at any level above baseline. Check JMA alerts and local notices before or on arrival.
Safety
Hakone is a safe destination by most measures. Petty crime rates are low. The primary environmental considerations are:
- Volcanic gas at Owakudani — visitors with respiratory conditions should be aware of sulphur dioxide concentrations in the valley area; signage is posted and alert levels are monitored
- Mountain weather — conditions change quickly at elevation; if hiking, check forecasts, carry layers, and tell someone your route
- Earthquakes — Japan sits on seismically active ground; familiarize yourself with your accommodation's evacuation procedures on arrival
Medical facilities in Hakone are limited compared to major cities. For serious emergencies, evacuation to Odawara or Yokohama may be necessary. Travel insurance with medical and evacuation coverage is strongly advised.
Local Culture & Etiquette
Hakone has been a place of rest and recuperation for centuries — it was a major checkpoint (the Hakone Sekisho) on the Tokaido road during the Edo period (1603–1868), and the reconstructed checkpoint near Lake Ashi provides historical context for the town's role in that era.
The tradition of onsen culture carries quiet etiquette expectations. In communal baths, wash and rinse thoroughly at the shower stations before entering the bath. Swimwear is generally not permitted in traditional onsen. Tattoo policies vary; if this applies to you, confirm with facilities individually before visiting rather than on arrival.
In ryokan, wearing the provided yukata in the corridors and common areas is normal and expected. Shoes are removed at the entrance (genkan); follow the host's lead on when and where to remove footwear. Mealtimes at ryokan are often set — confirm your plan's structure at check-in.
