Overview
Upper Takutu-Upper Essequibo, known as Region 9, is Guyana's largest administrative region by area and one of its most sparsely populated. It covers a vast stretch of the interior, bordering Brazil to the south and west. The regional capital, Lethem, sits on the Brazilian border opposite Bonfim, Roraima, and serves as the main gateway into the region.
The landscape shifts from the rolling Rupununi savannahs in the north and south to gallery forests, rivers, and wetlands in between. This is one of South America's most significant wildlife corridors, with populations of giant anteater, giant river otter, jaguar, caiman, capybara, and hundreds of bird species. The Rupununi wetlands, seasonally flooded, are particularly rich in biodiversity.
The region is home to a significant indigenous population, primarily the Makushi (north Rupununi) and Wapishana (south Rupununi) peoples, whose communities offer visitors an authentic window into land stewardship, traditional skills, and village life. Community-based tourism is central to how responsible travel works here.
Infrastructure is limited by global standards — roads are unpaved and conditions vary dramatically by season — but this remoteness is precisely what draws visitors seeking genuine wilderness and cultural immersion.
Before You Go
Visas and Entry
Guyana has its own entry requirements that vary by nationality. For current, accurate visa rules, check TravelerPulse's Visas section and the official Guyana Immigration Authority website. Do not rely on third-party summaries for this.
Health Precautions
The region is malaria-endemic. Consult a travel medicine clinic well before departure — prophylaxis recommendations should come from a qualified health professional, not a travel guide. Yellow fever vaccination is required for entry to Guyana and is strongly advisable for Region 9. Bring comprehensive insect repellent (DEET-based) and appropriate clothing.
Practical Preparations
- Cash is essential. ATMs are limited in Lethem and absent in the interior. Bring sufficient Guyanese dollars or USD to exchange locally.
- Connectivity is sparse. Mobile coverage is unreliable outside Lethem. Download offline maps (e.g., Maps.me with Guyana data) before you leave Georgetown.
- Book lodges in advance. Capacity at eco-lodges and community guesthouses is small. Last-minute arrival can leave you without accommodation.
- Travel insurance covering medical evacuation is strongly recommended given the remoteness of the region.
Getting There
By Air
The most practical way to reach the Rupununi from Georgetown is by domestic flight to Lethem (Lethem Airport / Cheddi Jagan Airport link via charter or scheduled domestic services). Domestic carriers and charter services operate this route; verify current operators and schedules locally or through Georgetown-based travel agents, as schedules change.
Overland from Georgetown
The overland route via the Linden-Lethem Road (also called the Mabura Road) is approximately 450–500 km and is unpaved for a substantial portion. Journey times vary enormously by season and vehicle type — commonly 10 to 20+ hours. Four-wheel-drive vehicles are standard. Shared minibuses operate this route but schedules and conditions should be verified locally.
From Brazil
Lethem borders Bonfim in Brazil's Roraima state. Travelers arriving by road from Boa Vista can cross at this border point. Verify current border crossing hours and entry procedures with both the Guyana Immigration Authority and Brazilian authorities before travel, as procedures can change.
Getting Around
Within Region 9, most travel between communities is by unpaved road requiring a 4WD vehicle, or by small aircraft (charter flights to airstrips in the interior). Horseback is still commonly used within communities and on the savannah — some lodges offer guided horse rides as an activity.
River travel by dugout canoe or motorized boat is used in certain areas, particularly in the wetter north Rupununi and for accessing specific wildlife areas. There is no formal public transport network beyond Lethem town. Arrange transport in advance through your lodge or a reputable tour operator based in Georgetown or Lethem.
Driving independently in the interior requires significant experience with off-road conditions, knowledge of river crossings, and contingency plans. Most first-time visitors travel with a local guide or through an organized tour.
Where to Stay
Accommodation in Region 9 ranges from small eco-lodges to community guesthouses. A few well-established lodges operate in the North and South Rupununi and have earned international recognition for combining comfort with conservation; Karanambu Lodge (associated with giant river otter conservation), Surama Eco-Lodge (community-owned), and Caiman House (community-based jaguar research) are among the names that appear consistently in credible travel and conservation literature. Always verify current operating status, pricing, and booking procedures directly with the lodge or a licensed tour operator, as operations in remote areas can change.
Lethem has basic guesthouses and small hotels suitable for a night's rest before or after traveling deeper into the region. Do not expect international hotel amenities anywhere in Region 9.
Things to See & Do
Wildlife and Nature
The Rupununi is one of the best places in South America to see giant river otters, black and spectacled caiman, giant anteaters, and — with patience and luck — jaguar. Guided wildlife walks, night spotlight surveys for caiman, and boat trips on the Rupununi River are among the most rewarding activities. Birding is exceptional; the region sits within the Guiana Shield, a globally significant biodiversity hotspot.
Community Visits
Several Makushi and Wapishana communities participate in community-based tourism, welcoming visitors for homestays, guided farm and forest visits, craft demonstrations, and cultural exchanges. Karanambu, Surama, Rewa, and Annai are among communities known for ecotourism — verify current offerings through tour operators or directly with communities before visiting, as programs evolve.
Rupununi Savannahs
The open savannah landscape offers opportunities for horseback riding, hiking, and simply experiencing a rare, largely intact grassland ecosystem. Seasonal flooding in the wet season transforms the landscape dramatically.
Iwokrama International Centre
Located at the northern edge of the region (and extending into Region 8), the Iwokrama Rainforest — approximately one million acres of protected forest — offers guided canopy walks, forest treks, and research tourism. The Iwokrama River Lodge and Research Centre can be reached by road or air. Verify availability and current programs via the Iwokrama International Centre directly.
Food & Drink
Food in the Rupununi is simple, locally sourced, and often genuinely interesting. Cassava (bitter and sweet varieties) is a staple across indigenous communities and appears as flatbread (cassava bread), farine (granular flour), and pepperpot-style stews. Fresh river fish — including piranha, which is mild and bony — is commonly served at lodges. Game meat (deer, labba) is traditional in some communities, though availability depends on local practice and season.
Lodges typically provide set meals included in accommodation packages; this should be confirmed at booking. In Lethem, small restaurants and cook shops serve basic Guyanese fare. Vegetarian options are limited in the interior — communicate dietary requirements when booking. Tap water should not be consumed without treatment; bottled or filtered water is standard at lodges.
Practical Information
Medical and Emergency
Medical facilities in Region 9 are extremely limited. Lethem has a regional hospital, but serious cases require evacuation to Georgetown. Travel insurance with helicopter or air evacuation coverage is not optional in this region — it is a genuine safety necessity. Keep a basic first aid kit and any personal medications in ample supply.
For emergency contact numbers in Guyana, verify current numbers with the Guyana Police Force, Guyana Fire Service, and health authorities before travel, as numbers and procedures can vary by region.
Communications
DiGi and GTT are the primary mobile providers in Guyana. Coverage in Lethem is reasonable; beyond town it is patchy to absent. Satellite phones or personal locator beacons (PLBs) are worth considering for travel deep into the interior.
Electricity
Guyana uses 110V/60Hz with US-style two-pin plugs as standard, though this can vary. Lodges in the interior often rely on generators with limited hours. Bring a portable power bank for charging devices.
Seasons
- Dry (Oct–Apr): Roads more accessible, wildlife concentrates around water sources, best for overland travel.
- Wet (May–Sep): Roads can become impassable, some lodges close or are accessible only by air, but the transformed landscape has its own appeal and fewer visitors.
Safety
Region 9 is generally considered safe in terms of personal security, and violent crime directed at tourists is not a commonly reported issue. The primary safety risks are environmental: remoteness, inadequate medical access, river crossings, extreme heat, biting insects carrying disease (malaria, dengue, leishmaniasis), and unpredictable road conditions.
Always inform someone of your itinerary and expected return when venturing into the interior. Travel with an experienced local guide when undertaking wildlife excursions, river trips, or overland journeys between communities. Wildlife encounters — with caiman, electric eels, stingrays in rivers, and (very rarely) large predators — require sensible caution and guide direction rather than alarm.
Check your government's current travel advisory for Guyana before departure.
Local Culture & Etiquette
The indigenous communities of the Rupununi — primarily Makushi and Wapishana peoples — have inhabited this landscape for centuries and remain culturally distinct, with their own languages, governance structures, land knowledge, and oral traditions. Visitors should approach community visits with genuine respect and curiosity rather than treating communities as attractions.
Always seek permission before photographing people or ceremonies. Follow the lead of your community host or guide regarding what areas are open to visitors and what topics or events are private. Purchasing locally made crafts (woven hammocks, basketry, beadwork) directly from artisans supports community income in a meaningful way.
Lethem has a Brazilian cultural influence given its border location, and you will encounter Portuguese as well as English and indigenous languages in the town. The annual Rupununi Rodeo, held in Lethem around Easter, is a celebrated regional event blending cowboy tradition with local community gathering — worth timing a visit around if possible, but verify dates each year.